Have you been thinking you might like to buy an Avocado Tree? Avocado trees are subtropical tree that do best in a warm, semi-humid climate that experiences few and brief hard freezes. An Avocado Tree will only grow outdoors in USDA Growing Zones 8-11, but even then the territory has to be just right – the avocado prefers moderate, consistent temperatures, not extreme heat, cold winds or snow.

Growing Avocados Indoors

Growing an avocado tree indoors is both easy and rewarding. You can find several varieties of quality Avocado Trees for sale at Citrus.com. You can also find potting mixes specially formulated for avocado trees, containing compost blended with sand for a loose, fast-draining composition, along with kits containing everything you need for avocado growing nutrition.

If you’re hoping that by keeping your own avocado tree you can save money by not buying avocados, you need to know that you’re unlikely to get fruit from a potted avocado tree unless you get a dwarf variety that’s been grafted onto rootstock. Whether you get fruit or not, however, you’ll get great enjoyment out of the beauty of your indoor avocado plant!

Caring for an Indoor Avocado

Indoor avocado plant care includes plant support and feeding. Use a stake to keep the plants main stem sturdy and straight as it grows. Also, transplant the tree as it outgrows its pot. Prune off any suckers that arise from the rootstock.

Growing avocados in containers indoors requires lots of bright light so the plant won’t become straggly. In the beginning, pinching off excess growth will help promote a bushier, stronger plant.

Fertilize your avocado tree with water-soluble food every month, and turn it frequently to promote even growth.

Avocado trees require regular watering for the plant to thrive and produce fruit. Give the plant moderate water when the soil feels dry to the touch.

When to Prune an Avocado Tree

Generally, avocado trees don’t require much pruning. Major pruning of outdoor trees in order to encourage branching is done during the winter, or immediately after harvest. Light pruning tasks can be done whenever needed. Only prune out dead or dying branches.

For outdoor trees, it’s a good idea to cut off the top of the tree (about 10-15 feet) after several years of avocado harvests. This also helps keep the tree at a good height for easy harvesting.

Did You Know?

Every wonder how you can tell when is an avocado ripe? Avocado trees take up to a year on the tree to fully ripen. If the avocado yields to firm but gentle pressure, you know it’s ready-to-eat. It should feel slightly soft, but not mushy.

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Are you a fan of avocados? If so, you’re not the only one – the Mexican fruit (yes, avocados are a fruit, not a vegetable) has grown popular along with the popularity of Mexican cuisine. Apart from the ubiquitous guacamole, avocados are enjoyed in everything from salads to breakfast toast. And avocados aren’t just delicious – they’re good for you, too! Avocados are known for being a source of “good fat” (monounsaturated fat, which helps main healthy cholesterol levels). They’re also packed with other nutrients, such as magnesium, potassium, folic acid, vitamin C, and vitamin E, and are high in fiber. In fact, the only bad thing about avocados, it would seem, is their price – compared to other produce, avocados tend to be more expensive.

Grow Your Own Avocados

An obvious solution for an avocado-lover would be to grow their own at home. But if you live in a colder climate, you may have figured it was out of the question. While you can find cold-hardy avocado trees for sale (along with cheap citrus trees, Citrus.com also offers several varieties of avocado tree for sale), you might be surprised to learn that you can also grow dwarf variety avocado trees indoors. Dwarf varieties of your favorite avocados (including the popular Hass Avocado Trees) are more likely to produce fruit when grown in pots or containers.

Growing an avocado tree indoors is both easy and rewarding. If you’ve purchased citrus trees online from Citrus.com before, you’ll be happy to know you can find several varieties of quality Avocado Trees for sale at Citrus.com as well, along with the items best suited to help you care for them (including specially formulated potting mixes and kits containing everything you need for avocado nutrition).

Caring for Indoor Avocado Trees

Dwarf avocado trees grow well indoors, but they do need regular feeding (fertilizing it with a water-soluble food every month is a good idea) as well as a stake to keep them sturdy and straight as they grow. You’ll also need to prune off any suckers that form on the rootstock, and “pot up” the plant before it outgrows its original pot.

Because avocado trees need a lot of light, you may want to consider moving your potted avocado outdoors when the weather warms. Indoors you may have to provide a grow light to help it along. (Avocado plants grown in containers will become straggly if they don’t get enough light, which is essential for a strong, sturdy, bushy plant). Turning the plant frequently in its pot also helps promote even growing.

Avocado trees also require regular watering for the plant to thrive and produce fruit. Feel the soil often; if it feels dry, it’s time to water. Generally, avocado trees don’t require much pruning.

A Rewarding Endeavor

It can take a long time to grow your own smooth, creamy, nutrient-rich avocados (the fruit takes a year on the tree to fully ripen), but it’s definitely worth it. And you’re sure to be delighted with the tree itself while you’re waiting – an attractive, evergreen plant with broad leaves, adding an avocado tree to your indoor décor will make a lovely statement even without the fruit.

The post How to Plant & Grow an Avocado Tree appeared first on Yarden.

You’ve got a burning question: Is a calamondin (or calamansi) a kumquat?  Wonder no further, because we’ve got a definitive answer for you!  The answer is . . . kind of.

Okay, so we fibbed a little about having a definitive answer.  A calamondin is actually a hybrid of a kumquat (and a mandarin orange, most likely a tangerine), but because the two share many similarities and due to taxonomy disputes over the years, it can often be difficult to distinguish between the two.  We’ve made this handy chart to help you identify them.

Though the two species have their differences, when it comes to growing conditions, the two can be treated practically identically.  Calamondin and kumquat trees are both adaptable, small trees that can tolerate frost and high humidity. They can both grow in a wide range of climates and are ideal for container culture.  All you have to do is decide which one best suits your Yarden!

The post Is Calamondin (Calamansi) a Kumquat? appeared first on Yarden.

Find out if a calamondin tree is right for your Yarden with this informative overview.

Name: Calamondin vs. Calamansi

This tree has many colloquial names, which can sometimes cause confusion.  In the United States, this tree and its fruit is typically called calamondin, which is an Americanized version of the Tagalog word, kalamunding. Calamansi, which is the Philippine English spelling of the Tagalog word kalamansi, is widely used in the Philippines.  They are both the same tree/fruit and can be used interchangeably.  The fruit is also sometimes called a Philippine lime, lemonsito, golden lime, bitter-sweets, and acid orange.

Origin

While calamondin trees most likely originated in China, they were distributed early and widely to the Philippines and other parts of Southeast Asia and have become synonymous with the Philippines. Tagalog is a language native to the Philippines, hence the origination of the name calamondin/calamansi. Calamondin trees are a natural hybrid of kumquat and tangerine.

Growth

Calamondin trees are small, bushy evergreens that can grow to be 10–20 feet tall when planted in the ground but can be kept smaller if grown in a container or pruned. Calamondin trees mature quickly and can produce fruit in two years. However, young plants use a lot of energy to produce fruit, so it’s recommended to thin them out in the early years to encourage fewer but larger fruits.

Fruit

The calamondin tree produces a citrus fruit that looks similar to a small, round lime. It has a thin peel that can be green or tangerine colored.  While the fruit has a sour/acidic taste, the peel is sweet.  Calamondins are a great source of vitamin C and D-limonene, and they can be used in cocktails, baked goods, sauces, marinades, and more.

Care

Calamondin trees are cold hardy and can tolerate temperatures as low as 20 degrees F. However, they do not grow well at temperatures consistently below 55 degrees and prefer a range of 70-90 degrees. They require at least six hours of direct sunlight daily to produce their best blooms. They prefer slightly acidic, well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. You can add composted leaves or glass clippings to your ground soil for this.  If you are growing in a pot, add perlite and coarse sand to your potting soil to improve drainage. Pruning is best done in late winter or early spring before new growth starts. Remove dead wood, such as brown, dry branches, to allow more energy for healthy growth.

Our citrus tree care kits make it easy to ensure optimal growth of your calamondin tree.

Harvesting

In calamondin’s native countries, harvesting is usually done when the skin is green (unripe), as they are frequently used similar to limes.  They will be especially acidic and tart at this point.  If you would like to eat the fruit, wait to harvest until the fruits are firm and yellow to yellow-orange in color. While calamondin fruit is technically ripe when it is soft and orange in color, it takes nearly a year to reach that point and harvesting it earlier by the above conditions gives it a better flavor.

Never pull the fruit directly off the tree by hand!  Because of their thin skin, this can tear off a small chunk of skin that remains attached to the stem and the fruit will not store as long.  Always use scissors or pruning shears to cut them off the tree just above the stem attachment, so a small piece of stem is still left on the harvested fruit. Calamondin can last 3-7 days at room temperature.  To prolong their life to around two weeks, seal freshly harvested fruits in a ziplock bag and place it in the veggie drawer of your fridge.

The post All About Calamondin (Calamansi) Trees appeared first on Yarden.

February is National Grapefruit Month. Grapefruits are a popular breakfast food that are packed with vitamins, minerals, and fiber. One large grapefruit can provide more than 100% of the daily value of vitamin C!

Celebrate by treating yourself to one of Yarden’s grapefruit tree varieties to reap these healthy benefits.  Grapefruit trees can be easy to care for (especially Rio Reds and Ruby Reds) in the proper conditions.  Here are some helpful tips to grow a thriving grapefruit tree.

• Full Sun – Allow your tree to get 6 or more hours of direct sun each day.
• Space – Grapefruits mature into large trees, so make sure to give them plenty of space. Plant 20-25 feet away from any structures, sidewalks, or driveways.
• Soil – Plant in well-draining soil and enrich it with an organic mulch such as grass clippings or leaves.
• Watering – Grapefruit trees need regular watering during their first year. Water when the top 3-4 inches of soil dries out.  You can cut back to watering 2-3 times a month in fall and winter.
• Fertilize – Make fertilizing a breeze with one of our citrus tree care kits, perfectly dosed and scheduled for either 3 months or a full year.

If you don’t have the space or time to care for a full-sized tree, a dwarf grapefruit tree might be for you. They can be grown in the ground or in a pot to a smaller size, but still produce full size fruits!

The post Celebrate Grapefruit Month with a Grapefruit Tree appeared first on Yarden.

If you don’t live in a zone where you can plant your citrus trees directly outside, you may be wondering when to bring them indoors and how to care for them during the winter months.  This will vary slightly according to your climate and tree varieties, but this guide will walk you through the general steps you should take when overwintering your citrus trees.

When to Move Your Citrus Trees Indoors

You want your citrus trees to grow in full sun for as long as possible before moving them indoors, but we all know the weather can be a fickle friend.  It may not be as straightforward as moving your trees in on a set date.  A good rule of thumb is to bring them in when the low temperatures are consistently around 40°F. This gives you time to bring them in before the first frost and to let them acclimate to the indoor conditions.

Where to Place Your Citrus Trees Indoors

As much sun as possible is key!  A sunroom is a great option, but if you don’t have one, place it near a sunny window, preferably a south-facing one.  Be sure to place it near enough that it gets plenty of sun, but not so close to the window that the branches could touch it and get too cold.  Avoid placing your citrus trees near vents or drafty areas like frequently opened doors, as drafts (hot or cold) can dry out your tree.

Creating the Right Environment

Now that you’ve found the best spot in your house for your citrus tree, let’s talk about ways you can enhance conditions further.  If you don’t have a south-facing window or an area with enough natural sunlight, you can always add grow lights.  How you add them will depend on your personal situation, but some options include clip-on lamps, adding a grow lightbulb to a floor lamp, or hanging grow light bars above your trees.  Place the lights 12-18 inches away from the trees.  Aim to give your trees 9-10 hours of light a day, whether that is all direct sunlight or a combination of sun and grow lights.  Never give them more than 12 hours of light in a 24-hour period!

Citrus trees thrive in humid conditions, which is something most people struggle to provide indoors.  Furnaces and heaters put off dry heat, which is necessary for keeping a house comfortable for humans, but not so helpful for the citrus trees!  Some ways you can create humidity for your citrus trees are to mist the leaves once or twice a day, place your pots on a shallow tray filled with pebbles and some water, or by adding a humidifier.  There are many options out there to fit your budget, from simple non-electric stone humidifiers to electric humidifiers with built-in, adjustable humidistats that give you a live reading of the environment’s humidity.

While it may be tempting to keep your thermostat cranked during the cold winter months, be mindful of the temperature where your trees will be.  Keeping them at 55-68°F is an ideal range. 

Winter Care

You’ve created the best environment for your citrus trees indoors, but that doesn’t mean the work is over!  Your trees will still need your time and attention throughout the winter months.

Water when the soil is dry 2 inches deep.  An easy way to check this is to stick your finger in the soil; if it is dry below your second knuckle, it is ready for some water.  You want the soil to be moist but not soaked.  Check regularly that your pot is draining well, as water built up in the pot can lead to root rot.  If you notice the leaves of your citrus trees starting to curl, you may not be watering enough.

Put down the fertilizer!  While fertilizing gives a necessary nutrient boost to citrus trees to help produce plenty of fruit, adding it during the winter can encourage growth.  Winter growth can leave your tree vulnerable.  Think of winter as a time for your trees to hibernate; saving their energy for the spring growing season.  In the same vein, hold off on any pruning until spring.

Inspect your trees regularly.  Outside pests can hitch a ride when bringing any plants indoors, so checking them regularly for signs of pests and disease will help you catch them before they turn into major problems.  Wiping the leaves with a damp cloth once a week will help keep them free of dust and prevent infestations.

The post Bringing Citrus Trees Indoors: A Winter Care Guide appeared first on Yarden.

Adding a Meyer lemon tree to your Yarden is the perfect way to have fresh lemons on hand, but they can often grow up to 15 feet or sometimes even higher!  So, what do you do if you are short on real estate?  A Dwarf Meyer Lemon Tree is the perfect choice to suit your space without compromising on taste and fruit production.

What is the difference between a dwarf and a regular Meyer lemon tree?

The main differences between the two varieties are size and growth rate.  A dwarf tree is created by grafting your fruiting tree variety onto a rootstock from another tree.  These rootstocks are chosen for their dwarfing characteristics and will ensure the trees will grow to a smaller size.  While a full-size Meyer lemon tree can grow 10-15 feet in height, a dwarf Meyer lemon tree will grow 6-10 feet tall in the ground and even smaller in a pot.  Meyer lemons are a shrub-like tree, so their width/spread is usually similar to their height.

Regular Meyer lemon trees will generally have a faster growth rate than their dwarf counterparts.  Because the dwarfed trees are slower growing, it is easier to manage their size and shape via pruning.  While a smaller tree will obviously produce a smaller quantity of fruit, by no means does this mean that a dwarf lemon tree is inadequate!  Our dwarf lemon tree is a prolific fruit producer, even when young, and though the tree itself is dwarfed, the lemons it produces are still full-sized.

How do I decide whether to plant my dwarf Meyer lemon tree in the ground or in a pot?

There are several factors you should consider when deciding where to plant your dwarf lemon tree.  The first thing you should consider is where you live.  If you are in USDA zones 8-11, you can safely plant your tree in the ground without having to worry about regular freezing temperatures damaging your tree.  If you are in zones 4-7, growing in a container will be the most convenient option.

If you are in a zone where you can plant in the ground, you also need to consider your available space. 

• Do you have powerlines that the tree branches could interfere with once fully grown? 
• Will the tree have adequate space around it for proper air circulation once fully grown (remember, they are shrublike and can grow as wide as they are tall)?
• How much sunlight does your space get?  The dwarf lemon tree needs 6-12 hours of direct sunlight per day.  If you have taller trees in your space or nearby buildings that will cast shade, planting in the ground may not be the best option. 
• Over- and underwatering can be detrimental to fruit production, so keep this in mind when choosing a space.  Avoid areas where water tends to sit for too long. Alternatively, make sure you don’t plant it too far away from a watering source.  Generally, dwarf lemon trees planted in-ground need watered every one to two weeks (and more during the dry season), so being close to an outdoor spigot or faucet that connects to a hose will make your life easier!
• Soil pH is also an important factor to consider.  This dwarf tree prefers slightly acidic soil, with a pH between 5.7 and 6.5.  You can check your soil pH at home with a kit, or you can send a soil sample off for testing.  Check with your city/county or local extension office to see if they offer free or low-cost soil testing.

How do I choose the right pot for my dwarf Meyer lemon tree?

If growing your dwarf lemon tree in a pot is the best option for you, you may be overwhelmed with how to choose the right one.  Here are some guidelines to help you pick the ideal pot for your situation.

Size

First and foremost, you’ll want to choose a pot that is an appropriate size.  You want it to be large enough to house the roots and allow room for growth.  A pot or container that is 18” to 24” in diameter is generally a good starting size.  Keep in mind that choosing a larger container now will mean less repotting in your future!

Drainage

As mentioned earlier, lemon trees need proper watering.  You’ll want to choose a pot that has adequate drainage to prevent root rot and underproduction of fruit.  A pot with drainage holes is best, and you can place it in a tray or shallow basin a little larger than the bottom of your pot to protect surfaces from water damage.  If you find a pot you like that doesn’t have drainage holes, you can drill holes in the bottom yourself (make sure you have the correct drill bit depending on the material of your pot) or check with your local plant store or greenhouse.  Some places will drill holes for free if you purchase the pot there or will drill them for a small fee.

Material

Even if you are growing your lemon tree in a pot, it is best to keep the tree outdoors when weather conditions permit.  Therefore, you’ll want to consider what material the pot is crafted from.  Choose something weather-resistant and durable to ensure the longevity of the pot.  Plastic, ceramic, concrete, and fiberglass are some common and durable outdoor options.  However, a concrete or ceramic pot will be much heavier to move than a plastic or fiberglass one, so keep that in mind if you will be moving your plant in and out each year or moving it outdoors frequently for watering.

Cost/Quality

Everyone’s budget looks different, so cost will play a huge part in choosing your pot.  Though a cheap pot may seem appealing now, the quality may be poor, and you could end up having to replace the pot multiple times over the life of your tree.  Spending a little more money and investing in a high-quality pot upfront could save you money in the long run.  If your budget doesn’t allow for a pricier, quality pot immediately, you can always start with a cheaper one while you save up for that investment planter to use when your tree has grown a little bigger.

These guidelines should help you find the perfect pot for your space.  However, if you want to skip the legwork and eventual repotting, check out our EverPot^TM Growing Systems.  Available in two sizes, each kit comes with an EverPot^TM air pruning pot and a decorative pot in your choice of 6 colors.  The air pruning pot has strategically placed holes in the bottom and sides.  When the roots reach the holes, they encounter air, which stops them from growing in that direction, and instead, branch off back into the soil.  This system keeps your tree’s roots from getting woody and growing circularly around your pot.  It also keeps your tree to a manageable size and, best of all, means there is no repotting required! A 5L EverPot^TM will keep your tree small enough to grow on a table and a 20L pot will keep your tree between 4-6 feet tall.  Perfect for your patio or balcony garden!

The post How Big Does a Dwarf Lemon Tree Grow? appeared first on Yarden.

Most people associate citrus with summer: cold glasses of lemonade, key lime pie, and frosty popsicles. However, most citrus trees in North America ripen and taste the sweetest in winter! While we offer over 40 varieties of citrus trees to choose from, here are our top 3 must-have varieties for winter.

1. Meyer Lemon Tree

This cold-hardy, evergreen citrus tree is a cross between a common lemon tree and a mandarin orange tree. It produces juicy medium-sized, orange-yellow, sweet-tart lemons. It blooms all year round, while harvesting usually happens twice a year: late fall/early winter and late winter/early spring. You can plant the Meyer Lemon tree directly in the ground in USDA zones 8-11 or in a container in zones 4-11. Our Dwarf Meyer Lemon tree also makes a great option for container growing. With the two harvest seasons spanning the winter, this variety will keep you well stocked for a cozy season. Squeeze a wedge into a hot cup of tea or use for a fresh take on a Hot Toddy. The rind emits a spicy bergamot scent that is herbier than a regular lemon. Try using the zest in this Lemon Icing Glaze atop some spiced muffins or toss those unused rinds in a stovetop potpourri to keep your house smelling great.

• Owari Satsuma Tree

The Owari Satsuma mandarin is another cold-hardy evergreen tree. It produces palm-sized, seedless, bright orange fruits about 1.8 inches in diameter. They are often mistaken for clementines because they are so similar in look and taste. The fruits have a thin, loose rind which is easy to peel, so they are a great option for kids or people who have a hard time peeling other citrus fruits. Like the Meyer Lemon, it is best suited for in-ground planting in zones 8-11 and in containers in 4-11. Owari Satsumas are in season from December to January but be mindful; if they go unpicked too long, they can become puffy and tasteless. Eat them fresh for a dose of immune-boosting vitamin C during cold and flu season. Because they have tough membranes and firm flesh, they are also great for canning, so you can have fresh citrus all year round! 

• Calamondin (Calamansi) Tree

Calamondin (also called Calamansi) trees are a cross between a tangerine and a kumquat. They produce a small, thin-skinned and tart citrus fruit that is orange in color and 2-3 inches in diameter. Calamansi has an earlier harvesting time frame (June through November), so they are popular around the holiday season. Sometimes called a Philippine lime, this sour fruit is ubiquitous in Filipino cuisine and often used as a condiment in recipes such as pancit. Try using these fruits to make a marmalade or freezing them to use as ice cubes in cocktails. In addition to being packed with vitamin C and antioxidants like potassium, limonene, and vitamin A, calamansi touts numerous health benefits. It can help fight inflammation, regulate sugar levels, and even reduce mucus! When you feel congested during the cold winter months, squeeze a glass of fresh calamondin juice. The citric acid helps break up the phlegm and mucus in your lungs and can help with pain and swelling in the throat.

Whether you’re finding happiness in the sweet-tart flavor of a Meyer lemon, the ease of peeling the Owari Satsuma, or the health benefits of the Calamondin, each variety brings its own burst of sunshine to the winter season. Shop now and choose which winter citrus you’ll add to your Yarden!

The post Winter Citrus Wonderland: Our Favorite Winter Citrus Trees appeared first on Yarden.

Ever wish you could grow your own fruit tree? We hear you – at Yarden, we love growing our own food, and we’re especially fond of fruit trees. Growing fruit trees has so many advantages…for one thing, there’s nothing that beats the thrill of plucking a ripened fruit off a tree in your own backyard to enjoy right then. For another, there’s simply no way to get fresher fruit. Fruit from your local grocer’s produce section may have spent weeks in transit and months in storage, but fruit you pick yourself can be enjoyed the same day you pick it – even the same hour.

Also, fruit trees are beautiful and provide shade to your backyard in the summer. They also put on a spectacular show in the spring! Even before the fruit is ready to harvest, fruit trees are a feast for the senses during the spring months, with showy, fragrant blossoms that add color and beauty to your garden.

But what kind or kinds of fruit trees should you add to your landscape? Each have their own pros and cons, some require more space than others, some come in dwarf varieties as well as full-size varieties, and some can only grow in certain climates.

Why You Should Grow Apples & Pear Trees

If you’re new to fruit growing, apple trees and pear trees are a great choice. Apples are the second most popular fruit in the US (after bananas), and pears are among the world’s most cultivated fruits. Both orchard fruits, or “pomes,” apples and pears are great for snacking, baking, cooking, in salads, and can be enjoyed in a huge variety of other ways. The two fruits are harvested around the same time and can complement one another in many dishes.

Both apple and pear trees are lovely and produce delicate, pretty, and fragrant blossoms in the springtime. The fruit itself is lovely as well as delicious and can be used in autumnal displays. Both fruits also make a welcome gift if you have an abundance!

If you live in the US, you may be limited in what fruit trees you can grow. Citrus fruits, for instance, require a warmer climate, but apple trees will flourish in all fifty states. The same can be said of pears, though you’ll want to research your varieties if you live in one of the warmer growing zones as most pear trees do best in damp climates with cold winters and cool summers. Dwarf varieties of apple and pear trees are available for those with smaller yards and can even be kept in pots that can be moved back and forth between your patio and a sunny spot indoors.

Planting & Growing Apple Trees and Pear Trees

Their fruits may be quite different from each other’s, but these pome trees require similar care. If you are careful to do a bit of research to find out what type of trees will do best in your unique growing conditions, how to care for them, and how to recognize and prevent the most common fruit tree pests and diseases, you’ll enjoy a fall harvest of fruit for many seasons to come.

• What type of tree? It might be tempting to choose a tree based on your favorite variety of pear or apple, but resist! Research the tree variety that will do best in your unique location. Consider your climate and the size of your growing area (you may need to go with a dwarf variety over a standard-sized variety). Be aware that most apple and pear trees require a second, compatible tree for cross-pollination, so you’ll want to know if your tree will need one, along with what tree will be a suitable companion tree (see section on cross-pollination below for more information about this).

• Preparing to plant. Choose a spot in your yard or garden at least three-and-a-half feet away from bushes and shrubs where your apple and pear trees can get at least six hours of full sun each day. You should also check to see if the soil is well-draining…you can do this by digging a hole in the area where you intend to plant your trees and fill it with water. Check back in several hours; if there is water standing in the hole, you should probably plant somewhere else.

• Watering. How much water your apple or pear tree will need will depend on the size of the tree and how hot the day is. Once every week or two is fine for established trees, while young trees need water up to three times a week depending on the type of soil. Do not overwater your trees! A young apple or pear tree planted in well-draining soil will do well with about fifteen gallons of water at a time (that’s around three buckets full). Don’t use a sprinkle or water the trunk – water slowly and deeply, aiming for the roots. Allow the roots to dry completely before watering again.

• Feeding and mulching. Your apple and pear trees get their food from the soil you plant them in. Fertilizing your trees will help them get the nutrients they need to grow, flower, and produce fruit. A nutrient-rich mulch, spread on the soil over the roots (not against the trunk, which can lead to pest infestations) will energize your trees without overfertilizing them. Apply it once a year in early spring for best results.

• Pruning. Pruning your apple and pear trees helps protect them from disease and pests. It also improves the health of your trees by improving air circulation and ensuring sunlight reaches all the branches. Pruning is also a great way to ensure your trees grow and maintain an attractive shape.

• Pests and disease. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure when it comes to protecting your pears and apple trees from pests and disease. Educate yourself on the different types of diseases and pests that can harm your trees so you can recognize any problems early and tackle them before they take hold. Common pear and apple tree problems include apple scab, fire blight, canker, rust, apple maggots and codling moths.

Pollination: Can Apples and Pear Trees Crosspollinate?

You may have heard that you need to plant more than one of the same kind of tree in order to get fruit. There’s some truth to this…all fruit trees need to be pollinated if they are to produce fruit. Some fruit trees (including many citrus varieties) are self-pollinating, meaning a healthy tree can still fruit even if there are no other citrus trees planted nearby. Most apple and pear tree varieties, however, are cross-pollinating, meaning pollen must be transferred (usually by insect or bird pollinators, the wind, etc.) from one tree to another in order for the trees to bear fruit.

If you’re disappointed to hear this because you only have room for two trees and you had your heart set on planting both an apple and a pear tree, take heart – while cross-pollinating trees usually do best when pollinated with fruit trees of the same genus (i.e. apple with apple and pear with pear), pear and apple trees can cross-pollinate with one another if both types of trees come into bloom at the same time. So be sure to research when your preferred variety of apple or bear tree will flower to ensure the greatest variety of fruit each season!

Shop Apple & Pear Trees>>

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If the bland, black discs dotting your pizza and the jarred, pre-stuffed green morsels make up the whole of your experience with olives, you’re missing out. But fresh olives can be hard to find in local grocery stores.

A staple of Mediterranean cuisine for centuries, olives have long been added to a variety of dishes and pressed to make olive oil. And with Arbequina Olive trees from Yarden, you can enjoy fresh olives at home!

Read on to learn more about Arbequina Olives and the tree they come from:

Arbequina Olive and Olive Tree FAQ

Q: Where do Arbequina Olive Trees come from?

A: Arbequina Olive Trees are native to Spain (specifically, the Catalonia region). They are now grown in many other parts of the world. In fact, almost 80% of the olive trees grown in California are Arbequina Olive Trees.

Q: What are Arbequina Olive Trees like in appearance?

A: Arbequina Olive Trees are an attractive addition to any garden (even without the fruit!). They are smaller trees, reaching anywhere from 15 to 20 feet tall when planted in the ground (though regular pruning can keep them smaller).

Like citrus trees, Arbequina Olive Trees are evergreen. The tree’s pleasing shape makes it coveted as an ornamental, with gracefully dropping branches sporting shiny, silvery-green leaves and small, fragrant white blossoms that appear early in the spring. The glossy fruit starts out green, transitions to pale pink, then deep purple, then finally near-black. Like most olive varieties, the fruit of an Arbequina Olive Tree can be enjoyed at almost every stage of ripeness, depending on whether you prefer ripe or unripe olives.

Q: Do I need more than one Arbequina Olive Tree to get fruit?

A: Good question, and one likely to be asked by those who have experience growing apple or pear trees! Like citrus trees, Arbequina Olive Trees are self-pollinating. That means you can still grow an Arbequina Olive Tree of your own in smaller gardens.

Q: How soon will my Arbequina Olive Tree bear fruit?

A: An Arbequina Olive Tree can begin to produce fruit as early as two years after planting, though it may be as long as four years before fruit begins to appear. Mature trees produce more fruit (as much as fifteen pounds in a growing season). The tree flowers in early spring; while the olives begin to ripen by October. For darker olives, wait until November to harvest.

Q: Do I need to live in a warm climate to plant an Arbequina Olive Tree?

A: Arbequina Olive Trees can tolerate temperatures as low as 20°F. In the US, they can be grown in the ground in horticultural growing zones 8 through 10, and in pots in zones 4 through 7. Keep in mind that potted olive trees are unlikely to produce fruit, though they do make lovely ornamentals on your patio or deck.

Q: How much care and maintenance does an Arbequina Olive Tree need?

A: Arbequina Olive Trees are drought-resistant and grow well in rugged soil. They are also resistant to pests and disease, making them great candidates for organic gardens. Arbequina Olive Trees should be planted or placed in areas that get lots of sunshine. An Arbequina Olive Tree should be planted in well-draining soil and allowed dry periods between watering. Potted trees should be brought indoors when temperatures dip below freezing. Occasional pruning can help maintain the health and shape of the tree, as well as keep it at a manageable size. For a better fruit crop, it is beneficial to fertilize the tree twice a year.

Q: I prefer (black/green) olives. Which type of olive are Arbequina Olives – black or green?

A: We’ll let you in on a little secret – just about all olives (including Arbequinas) are both black and green – the difference between the two types depends on the stage of ripeness, not the variety of olive. If you prefer the sharper taste of a green olive, you’ll start harvesting your fruit when the juice changes from clear to milky. If you prefer sweeter olives, you’ll wait for the fruit to turn deep purple or near-black before you start picking.

Q: How can Arbequina Olives be used?

A: The meaty fruit of the Arbequina Olive Tree can be used in many ways. Arbequina Olives can be enjoyed at almost any stage of ripeness and used as a topping for pizza or a garnish for cocktails, on cheese boards with fruits and nuts, in salads or sandwiches, and in all kinds of recipes. They can also be stuffed and served with humus as appetizers or hors d’oeuvres.

When milled from fully ripe (black) olives, Arbequina Olive Oil is aromatic and sweet with no harsh aftertaste and, due to its mild flavor, is ideal for roasting or sauteing vegetables or used to cook fish. The oil is good for baking or in making salad dressings, pesto, olive butter, or mayonnaise. It can also be used as a dipping oil for crusty bread.

Q: Are Arbequina Olives good for you?

A: Definitely! Arbequina Olives are rich in antioxidants and high in vitamin E and phytonutrients (which have been shown to reduce your risk for some types of cancer). Arbequina Olives also have anti-inflammatory benefits and contain oleanolic acid, which is good for heart health. Unlike jarred or canned olives which are preserved in brine, fresh Arbequina Olives aren’t high in sodium, and because they’re unprocessed they are high in polyphenols, plant compounds that have been linked to better brain and digestive health, and other benefits.

Q: Can I brine my fresh Arbequina Olives?

A. You can home-brine your freshly harvested olives in salt water, then marinate them in olive oil, garlic, and aromatic herbs such as rosemary and/or by leaves and they’ll keep for up to four months.

The post Everything You Need to Know About Arbequina Olive Trees appeared first on Yarden.

Has your backyard apple tree or pear tree been producing less fruit lately? Fruit trees are wonderful ornamental plants even without fruit, but let’s face it – harvesting your own fruit from your own tree is more than half the fun of having a fruit tree!

If your trees are putting out only a few apples and pears each season, or even no fruit at all, there are ways to get them producing again. Healthy trees provide the most abundant fruit, but even healthy trees need attention to keep them thriving.

5 Expert Tips for Getting More Fruit from Your Apple and Pear Trees

Whether you want to properly care for a newly planted fruit tree so it provides lots of fruit, need help with planning what kind of fruit to get and where to plant it so it produces, or want to help existing fruit trees that have fallen off in fruit production, these tips can help you:

1. Start with the right tree in the right location. Not all apple trees and pear trees are created equal. Before planting, you should do some research to ensure that you’re getting the right tree or trees for your garden. Where you live, what your climate is like, and what sorts of pests and plant diseases inhabit your area can all have a bearing on the variety of fruit trees that are best for your yard or garden. For new trees, you also need to pick the perfect place to plant – preferably one with lots of sunshine and well-draining soil. For assistance with how to grow fruit trees on your property, reach out to our friendly and helpful Customer Care Team, who are more than happy to get you started.
2. Plant a pollinating partner. To get more apples or pears from your tree, there needs to be other apple or pear trees around. Unlike citrus trees, most apple and pear tree varieties can’t be pollinated without help from another tree. That means you’ll need to plant at least two trees (unless your neighbor has a fruit tree of the same genus that blooms at the same time as your tree). While pear and apple trees can cross-pollinate with one another, it’s best to pollinate fruit trees of the same genus with each other (e.g. apples with apples, pears with pears). The good news is that they don’t have to be the same variety of fruit trees as long as they bloom around the same time, so you can plant two different types of apple trees or pear trees.
3. Make sure your trees get enough water. Even in a climate congenial to your fruit trees, Mother Nature may not provide enough precipitation. Watering your fruit trees is an easy way to help increase the amount of fruit they produce. When spring arrives, water the entire area beneath your fruit trees anytime it goes a week without rain. (Avoid getting your tree’s trunk or branches wet – that should be left to the rain.)
4. Provide nutrients with fertilizer. If you notice an existing pear tree or apple tree’s fruit production falling off, it may be that the soil around the tree has become depleted. Applying fertilizer just as the tree is beginning to bud in early spring can help your tree to thrive again. Applying the fertilizer out to the width of the tree’s canopy ensures the roots get the nourishment it needs. You can repeat the process when fruit starts showing up on the branches – just make sure you use a fertilizer recommended for fruit trees (our Yarden Customer Care Team can help).
5. Trim your trees regularly. Trimming your apple or pear tree regularly not only keeps it looking beautiful, but also encourages fruit production because you enable sunlight to reach the branches. It’s actually more pruning than trimming – you’re removing dead or unhealthy branches and thinning extra branches to get more fruit from the branches that remain. This should be done in the late fall or early spring when the tree is either going into or coming out of its dormant mode. You can prune your trees yourself or hire a tree care company to come and do it for you.

With the four tips above, your apple tree’s fruit production should increase. Be patient — some trees may take a year or two to improve their production after you change things around.

Buy Apple and Pear Trees from Yarden

The post How to Care for Apple and Pear Trees so They Produce More Fruit appeared first on Yarden.

Mangos are a sweet and delicious tropical stone fruit that was uncommon in North America due to the difficulty in importing it, but nowadays new varieties of mango trees are grown in the southern United States, making the summer fruit much more accessible.

Mangifera Indica originated in the tropical climate of southeast Asia, but if you live in USDA growing zone 9 or above, you can plant your own backyard mango tree – and if you live in USDA growing zone 4 or above, you can even keep a mango tree in a container on your patio, ensuring you’ll enjoy homegrown mangos of your own!

Quick Facts About Mango Trees

If you’re planning to grow a mango tree in your garden, keep in mind that a mature mango tree can reach anywhere from thirty-two to 130 feet tall. There’s good news if you have a smaller space, though – with regular pruning, mango trees can be kept to a more manageable ten to twenty-three feet tall. Dwarf varieties (like the Carrie Mango Tree) can even be kept in pots (and have the added advantage of being able to be overwintered indoors). Another good thing about mango trees is that they are self-pollinating, so if you’re short on space you need plant only one tree to get fruit.

Mango trees have a long lifespan and can still produce fruit after a century. In fact, the more mature the tree, the tastier the fruit.

How to Grow Mango Trees

Mango trees grow best in temperatures between 80-100°F, so you should live in a warm climate if you want to attempt planting a mango tree. If you live in a climate where temperatures dip below freezing in the wintertime, you’ll need to overwinter your potted mango indoors as freezing temperatures will kill it. Keep in mind that temperatures below 50°F will cause the flowers and fruit to fall off your mango tree.

The best time of year to plant a mango tree is late spring or early summer when the soil is warm enough for the tree to take root in your landscape.

1. Choose a congenial spot for your mango tree. You should plant your mango tree in a that gets at least 8-10 hours of sun each day (though seedlings may need some sun protection while they are becoming established. You should also choose a spot with well-draining soil, with a pH balance of 5.5 to 7.5.
2. Dig a hole big enough for the size of your potted mango. Prepare the site by digging a hole that is twice as wide and deep as the root ball. Place the mango tree in the hole and backfill the hole with soil.
3. Spread mulch around the base of your mango tree. This will help retain soil moisture and protect the young mango tree root. Be careful to avoid the trunk.
4. Water your mango tree properly. Water your newly planted mango tree well, and continue to water it every day (or every other day) until it has recovered from the shock of transplanting and begun to settle in.
5. Stake your mango tree if necessary. If your new mango tree looks a little fragile, provide it with a supportive stake while it’s young (particularly in breezy climates).

How to Care for Mango Trees

Once your new mango tree is well established, follow these tips for keeping it healthy and thriving and to ensure you get fruit at the proper time (when the tree is around six years old):

Watering. Fully mature mango trees thrive in both wet and dry seasons and don’t need as much water as their younger counterparts. How much water your tree will need will depend on natural rainfall, temperature, and soil moisture retention. During dry weather, water regularly several times a week, making sure that the roots don’t sit in wet and soggy soil.

Fertilizing. Mango trees need nutrient-rich soil to encourage growth and promote fruit production. Fertilizer encourages flowering and helps with consistent and healthy tree growth and fruit production.

Pruning. You should prune your mango tree regularly to keep it healthy and a manageable size. Young mango trees need pruning several times a year. Pruning the new shoots when they reach twenty inches long encourages growth and helps shape your mango tree. Once the mango tree is mature (at around five years old), a single annual pruning should be enough.

Buy Mango Trees Online

Yarden’s collection of mango trees is sure to bring a taste of the tropics to your home! The varieties we offer originated in South Florida and include:

• The Carrie Mango Tree. This variety grows into a dense, rounded form with wide leaves that form a thick canopy, making it a wonderful shade tree. Its compact size is perfect for smaller yards.

• The Haden Mango Tree. A bit more cold-hardy than other mango tree varieties, the Haden produces medium-to-large mangos that are tangy-sweet, juicy and nearly fiberless. The tree is beautiful with dark-green leaves and red new growth.

• The Valencia Pride Mango Tree. The Valencia Pride tree produces medium-large, oval-shaped fruit with a fiberless, silky-textured flesh that’s very sweet with just a touch of tartness. The tree itself is fast-growing and easy-care.

The post How to Grow and Care for a Mango Tree appeared first on Yarden.

Any deck, balcony, or patio, big or small, can be transformed by a potted tree. A tree planted in a container can act as a focal point for your patio or garden, while multiple container trees can provide privacy screening or turn a hot, exposed area into a leafy bower. A potted tree can make a statement no annuals could ever match. And when you choose to keep a Meyer Lemon Tree in a pot on your patio, you get the added benefit of deep-green color year-round (citrus trees are evergreen), fragrant white flowers in the springtime, and – best of all – delicious, gourmet fruit grown right in your own backyard. A hybrid of a true lemon and a mandarin orange, Meyer Lemons are smaller than their conventional cousins, sweeter, and much coveted in recipes of all kinds from sweet to savory. They can also be used in any recipe that calls for lemons, and you’ll love using your own homegrown fruits instead of having to make a grocery store run!

If you’re already moving on because you believe you don’t live in a climate conducive to growing a lemon tree, hang on – the improved Meyer Lemon is the hardiest of lemon trees, and trees kept in pots can be brought indoors to overwinter when the weather turns cold.

When it comes to lemon tree care, Meyer Lemon trees are easier to look after than other citrus plants. This doesn’t mean you can just stick your tree in a pot and give it some water now and then and expect it to thrive. But with the right information and a little effort, your potted Meyer Lemon Tree can brighten your patio and kitchen for years to come.

Care Tips for Potted Meyer Lemon Trees

Meyer lemon trees can be planted in the ground in USDA Hardiness Zones 8-11 (the southern coastal regions and deep southern half of the United States), where its maximum height (about ten feet tall) makes it ideal for smaller gardens. Even in tropical climates, however, your Meyer Lemon Tree will need help when the thermometer dips below freezing, but since Meyer Lemons love temperatures between 50°F and 80°F, most will do quite well in colder growing zones if they’re kept in containers that can be overwintered.

Here’s what you’ll need to do to keep your Meyer Lemon Tree healthy:

• Choose a sunny location for your Meyer Lemon Tree. This is the most important thing to remember: full sun exposure, at least eight hours a day. (This is true in the winter, as well, so keep that in mind when planning on getting a Meyer Lemon to keep in a pot.) Not enough sun means little to no fruit.

• Pick the right pot and soil for your Meyer Lemon Tree. The pot you keep your Meyer Lemon Tree in should be at least 12″-17″ in diameter and have plenty of drainage holes. The soil should be sandy and well-draining.

• Don’t overwater your Meyer Lemon Tree. Depending on the season and the local climate, you should only need to water your Meyer Lemon once every one or two weeks. Newly repotted trees might need a bit more during the first few weeks after, but stick your finger up to the second knuckle to make sure the soil feels dry before you do it…overwatering your lemon tree lead to waterlogging the soil and causing infection in the roots.

• Fertilize your Meyer Lemon Tree regularly. To ensure your citrus tree grows well, stays healthy, and puts out lots of blossoms and fruit, fertilize three times during the growing season – once in early spring, once during the summer, and once in the fall. There are high-nitrogen or slow-release fertilizers formulated specifically for citrus trees that are suitable.

• Prune your Meyer Lemon Tree with caution. A citrus tree’s shape doesn’t impact its ability to bear fruit, so you shouldn’t need to prune your Meyer Lemon unless you want to shape it. If you do choose to prune, wait until the tree is at least three feet tall and do it in the wintertime, after the fruit has ripened and been harvested. Work up from the base, removing dead, dying, or fragile limbs, limbs that limit the flow of air to the center of the tree, and work from there to shape the tree the way you like.

Troubleshooting

When you buy Lemon Trees from Yarden you know you’re starting with a strong, healthy tree, and Meyer Lemons are relatively easy-care and especially resistant to disease. There are some common issues you may run into that will need to be addressed, however…here’s what to look for:

• Yellowing leaves. This is a fairly easy fix – if you see some of the leaves on your Meyer Lemon Tree are turning yellow, you are very likely overwatering the tree. Let the soil dry out completely before watering it again, and keep your watering schedule to once every one or two weeks going forward.

• Drooping leaves. Leaf droop (the abnormal sagging or downward bending of a plant’s foliage) is usually a sign of sudden stress. A change in environment could be the culprit…if you’ve recently moved your tree outdoors for the summer, watch to be sure the sudden light exposure doesn’t scorch the leaves. If you’ve moved your tree indoors for the winter, be sure the temperature is over 50°F and the tree is getting enough sunlight. Check for overwatering, underwatering, and be sure to fertilize your tree regularly so it gets the nutrients it needs.

• Leaf damage. Meyer Lemon Trees are typical targets for a variety of pests, including whiteflies, rust mites, mealybugs, aphids, and scale. While established adult trees usually can withstand an infestation or two, smaller, more vulnerable trees can be decimated by any one of these issues. Signs of pest issues will typically appear on the undersides of leaves or on the fruit…to control and eliminate pests issues, prune away any dead, unhealthy, or infected areas of the plant, then spray it with diluted neem oil regularly until all signs of the infestation have vanished.

The post Tips on Caring for a Meyer Lemon Tree  appeared first on Yarden.

Types of Avocados

Worldwide, there are over one hundred types of avocado trees planted for home gardening and commercial growth. However, only a few of these avocado tree cultivars are grown widely in the United States for their superior quality.

• Hass Avocado – This avocado is the most popular cultivar in the United States and accounts for 95 percent of avocados sold. It has green bumpy skin that turns purplish upon reaching maturity and offers a creamy flesh with superior taste. What keeps the Hass avocado apart from the rest is its ability to ripen on the tree and remain there for many months. It also has the longest seasonal availability, which can last for 7 months.
• Reed Avocado – Reed is a summer-fall variety of avocado that compliments Hass. It is bigger compared to Hass and stays green even when ripe. The golden-yellow flesh is buttery and offers a wonderful flavor that is rich, bold, and nutty.
• Zutano Avocado – This variety has a waxy, green-yellow-skin that retains its color upon maturity. Compared to Hass, it boasts a silkier texture and offers an avocado flavor with a note of lemon. This cultivar is mostly used as a pollinator to Hass.

Avocado Tree Care

Growing an avocado tree at home can be rewarding. Imagine having an avocado fruit all to yourself for much of the year, with free access to nutrients you can only get from fresh fruits.

If you wish to grow an avocado tree in your backyard, follow the avocado care tips we have prepared below to grow a healthy plant that will produce flavorful fruits in no time.

• Avocado trees thrive in rich humus soil where they can get nitrogen and other nutrients needed to establish healthy roots.
• These trees like sunlight and should be planted in an area where they get 6 to 8 hours of sunlight each day.
• When watering avocado trees make sure that you do not over do it, as they do not like standing water. Keep in mind that the soil should be moist, not saturated. For the first week water your tree daily, then reduce watering to once a week or when the soil gets dry to 2 inches deep.
• If you live in an area where winter is harsh and there is always the danger of frost, provide your tree with cold protection.
• Prune diseased, damaged, or decayed branches to prevent the spread of disease on your tree.
• Fertilizer is a must when it comes to fruiting trees like avocado trees. You must apply ½ to 1 pound of nitrogen for every avocado tree you have. You may spread out the administration into several applications so long as it amounts to the recommended volume.

The post What Type of Avocado Tree Should I Buy? appeared first on Yarden.

If you’re a big coffee drinker, you’re probably used to throwing out your coffee grounds after you use them. However, consider putting those coffee grounds to use by turning them into fertilizer for your plants. Keep your used coffee grounds from ending up as trash and use them to help grow healthy and strong plants, most notably lemon trees.

Whether you already have or are looking for dwarf lemon trees for sale, a dwarf meyer lemon tree for sale, or any lemon tree to help spruce up your backyard, they’re the perfect receptacle for putting your used, fully composted coffee grounds. Check out this amazing way to turn your coffee grounds from trash to a helpful fertilizer that will allow your lemon tree to flourish into one of the best lemon trees possible!

Using Coffee Grounds for Your Lemon Tree

Most coffee drinkers are probably familiar with the powdery substance left behind after brewing coffee. While you may be used to just throwing them in the trash, you can use coffee grounds for something better than making your garbage smell like day-old coffee.

You can use this highly nutritious organic material to help feed your lemon tree. As coffee grounds are high in nitrogen and other nutrients that allow for your plants to prosper, they are a surefire way to help keep up the health of your lemon tree. Instead of wasting money on fertilizer, use the coffee grounds you already have.

Benefits of Coffee Grounds for Your Plants

Using coffee grounds for your plants, specifically your lemon tree, offers a host of benefits when it comes to maintaining plant health. The high nutrients of the coffee grounds provide a cheaper alternative to traditional fertilizer while, at the same time, cutting down on the time it would take one to buy and transport fertilizer. Some perks of using coffee grounds on your lemon tree include:

• The calcium in coffee grounds allows the lemon tree to build strong cell walls, leading to a strong branch structure.
• The high dose of nitrogen in the coffee ground accelerates the growth of the tree’s root system giving the tree healthy foliage.
• The trace amount of caffeine still found in the grounds is a repellent for snails, slugs, and deer.

How to Use Coffee Grounds as Fertilizer

It’s important to ensure your coffee grounds are composted before placing them on your lemon tree as a fertilizer. That being said, if you decide to place the coffee grounds on directly, only do so in small doses. However, having the coffee grounds composted is best.

When it comes to small lemon trees, you only want to place about a one-inch layer around the tree’s base, making sure not to let the coffee grounds touch the trunk. More mature trees can handle up to a three-inch layer of ground coffee. Immediately water the coffee grounds once placing them by the tree to dilute the caffeine and help the roots absorb the calcium and nitrogen in the coffee grounds.

Doing this throughout the spring season will help your lemon tree grow. You can do this every four to six weeks during the growing season and cut back during the fall and winter months. Since lemon trees are evergreen and fruit-bearing trees, you must regularly feed them and have rich soil to ensure growth at a normal rate and maintain healthy foliage no matter the lemon tree climate.

How to Prepare Your Coffee Grounds

You must prepare your coffee grounds before placing them on your lemon tree to reduce the chemicals in them. Though, in small amounts, placing the grounds straight to your plant is fine, it is better to be safe than sorry.

You can start preparing them by storing the coffee grounds in a jar or container. Let them cool first before doing so. Ensure the lid isn’t on tightly or has holes so moisture doesn’t stay trapped in the container and create mold.

You should also mix your coffee grounds with brown material so as not to place them directly on your plant. It’s a good idea to mix them with the compost you already have. Brown material in your compost consists of leaves, straw, hay, or bark chips. Coffee grounds are a green material, so it’s important to mix them with brown material first. A good ratio of ⅔ brown material and ⅓ green material will do.

Though you may not want to wait, it’s good to let the material decompose for at least six months. You may be sad you can’t start using your coffee grounds as fertilizer immediately, but it will all be worth it. Letting them break down allows them time to mix with the brown material and lose any otherwise harmful chemicals.

Are Coffee Grounds Safe for Your Lemon Tree?

Coffee grounds are safe for lemon trees once they’ve decomposed and lost their chemicals. Too many coffee grounds on a lemon tree before this process happens may cause the death of the good bacteria in the soil and other microorganisms needed for proper tree growth. While this may not be a problem in small amounts, waiting for the decomposition process to run its course is best.

Try out Coffee Grounds on Your Lemon Trees!

Coffee grounds as fertilizer can provide an effective and cheaper alternative for your lemon trees than a traditional fertilizer. If you’re an avid coffee drinker with a green thumb, this is the perfect way to raise healthy and lasting lemon trees. Whether it be a bearss lemon tree, cocktail lemon tree, or dwarf eureka lemon tree, this technique will surely help your trees flourish.

While half a year can seem like a long time to wait for your coffee grounds to be ready to be placed on your lemon tree, it will be well worth it. If you get started today, in six months, you will have the perfect fertilizer to help your lemon tree grow and flourish. So, don’t wait another day and start composting your coffee grounds now so that you’ll have the perfect fertilizer by next spring.

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When it comes to growing plants on a balcony or terrace, even experienced gardeners can face a challenge. But don’t let that discourage you, it’s also an opportunity to get creative and have some fun. Whether you want to create an urban vegetable garden or a tropical paradise, the possibilities are endless .

Of course, you’ll have to work within the limited space available, which means you can explore some nifty tricks to maximize every inch. Luckily, we’ve got some tips to help you start your balcony gardening adventure. So put on your gardening gloves, grab your trowel, and let’s get growing!

Growing on a Balcony Garden

You’ll want to ensure you have enough space for your chosen plant and access to the right amount of sun or shade it needs to thrive. And if you live in an area with cold winters, don’t fret: plenty of outdoor potted plants can survive year-round outdoors or be brought indoors for the winter.

So what can you grow in your balcony garden? The options are numerous! You can cultivate fresh herbs and veggies for your next home-cooked meal, or try your hand at growing small trees like dwarf citrus plants or olive trees. If you’re planting citrus trees in clay soil, be sure to take proper care to keep them in the best shape possible.

Small shrubs, annuals, perennials, and succulents are also great choices, depending on the light conditions of your space. And don’t forget about the tropical vibes! You can bring in some philodendron or spider plants for a pop of greenery. If you’re looking for something a little more challenging, try researching the best plants for posts outdoors.

If you’re looking to add some height to your balcony garden, consider using hanging plants outdoors or growing climbing plants like flowering vines — just make sure you have a trellis or other vertical support to help them reach new heights.

Watering on a Balcony Garden

Whether you’re planting succulents outdoors or choosing something a little more traditional, finding an outside water source for balcony or rooftop gardens can be a real challenge. But fear not – you don’t need to lug heavy jugs of water from your sink or bathtub every time you need to water your plants.

If you have lots of plants to water, consider investing in a large, lightweight watering can that you can fill up in your bathtub. And for space-saving solutions, collapsible watering cans are the way to go. They take up minimal space and can be stored flat when not in use.

Don’t waste a drop of water – put saucers or trays under your plants to catch any overflow. Self-watering pots can also be a game-changer, as they help conserve water and significantly decrease watering frequency.

If you’re feeling fancy, you can even eliminate watering cans altogether by investing in a lightweight, expandable garden hose that attaches to your kitchen sink with an adapter. They come in lengths up to 100 feet and retract easily for storage.

An important thing to remember is that the hotter and windier it is on your balcony, the more often you’ll need to water your plants — sometimes twice a day! So if you’re far from a water source, consider growing plants outdoor with low water requirements like cacti and succulents.

Getting the Most Out of Your Space

You might think that you need a lot of space to create a balcony garden, but in reality, a little creativity can go a long way! Remember to take advantage of your balcony’s walls, railings, and overhead structures.

Go vertical with your garden by attaching pots, shelves, or trellises to the walls. Consider adding a few hooks for hanging plants outdoors if you have a ceiling. To maximize your space even more, cover your balcony’s railings with chicken wire to support climbing plants or invest in plant hangers that can be attached to the top of a railing. (Looking for more vertical gardening ideas? We’ve got you covered!)

Think of your balcony garden as an extension of your indoor living space. Choosing plant colors and textures that match your interior design makes even the smallest balcony look more spacious and inviting.

Understanding the Limits of Balcony Gardening

When starting, you’ll need to be aware of any weight restrictions your balcony may have. You want to avoid overloading your space with heavy planters that may cause damage. Also, make sure to check the rules regarding what you can and can’t hang from your balcony railings and walls. Aside from weight, you’ll also want to consider the microclimate of your balcony. The amount of sunlight, wind exposure, and temperature can all affect what and where you can plant.

Wind can quickly dry out the soil and cause damage to delicate foliage, so make sure to protect your plants from strong gusts by using privacy screens or placing them in low pots near a wall. Heat can also be a factor, especially if your balcony is made of materials that retain heat, so consider planting in lighter containers or using shades to protect your plants.

Finally, if your balcony is surrounded by tall buildings or covered by an overhang, you may need to work around the lack of sunlight. You can still grow sun-loving plants by placing them near the balcony’s perimeter where they can get more light. Before you start planting, it’s essential to check with your building owner or apartment manager to make sure you’re following any rules or regulations they may have.

Find the Perfect Plants for Your Balcony Garden

With some careful planning, creativity, and a bit of patience, you can transform your small space into a lush oasis that brings you joy and relaxation. Remember to choose plants that are suitable for your climate, space, and light conditions, and always consider weight and other restrictions before buying containers or accessories — and most importantly, have fun with it!

If you’re ready to start your balcony gardening journey, head on over to Yarden.com, where you can find a wide variety of plants and accessories to help you create the perfect garden for your balcony. So whether you’re just starting or are an experienced gardener out here planting citrus trees, Yarden has everything you need to make your dream balcony garden a reality.

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